Supermodel Forum

Thanks, icuk7! That's a good tip and I'll try to look out for those. In the meantime, I do have an ATX PSU that still miraculously works. It's an old piece of junk that came with my VF3 board. Whoever owned that board had made it. I think I picked up the VF3 board for $100 or $200 back in the day.

Tomorrow I'm going to order the various connector components I need. In the near term, I want to just be able to connect the input pins to a breadboard. I recently built a silly circuit that can read out a 6-button Genesis pad and I wanted to hook that up to VF3. I'll reuse the connectors for the more important project: talking to a custom firmware program through the pins.

While you're here, I'm starting to wonder about how hard it would be to get audio into a pair of speakers and also hook up a steering wheel and pedals. What is exposed on the I/O board (or filter board as I understand now it is called)? Do these signals need to be amplified, level-shifted, or impedance matched to typical computer speakers? I know nothing about audio

I think it would be awesome to hook up a PC steering wheel to the game but I imagine that this would require some custom engineering. If the steering wheel and pedals talk over some sort of serial connections and pass down digital data, then it would be pretty easy to build a conversion board. If the Model 3 takes the analog signal directly and has the ADC on-board, then that is a bit trickier but probably not impossible.

I'm just about to leave for work so will reply a bit more in detail later if reqd.

Getting basic audio shouldn't be a major issue.
You can wire a 3.5mm jack direct to CN7 or CN8 on the Model 3 filter board using the connectors Model3man stated, one is for front audio and one is for rear.
No music though, but you will get sound.

Getting steering would be a bit more difficult as you may need the I/O board, I'm not 100% sure though as the 5k pot may just connect direct to the filter board before going to the drive board.
But once you sort that you could in theory hook up a steering wheel + pedals, all 3 use the same 5k pots (3 pots in total).

Bart, please let me send you a Daytona 2 loom and some other useful bits, it will make life much easier to get Daytona 2 up and running.
It may be daunting at first, but if you work in sections everything becomes clear with the schematics.

OK, gotta run! Should have left 30 mins ago.

model3man wrote:The filter board uses JST NH female connectors. Sadly these are very hard to come by anymore. Even the part numbers I bought from digikey are no longer available. I was ordering longer parts and dremeling them down to the correct number of pins.

Luckily I was able to find the main power connector at RS in australia.
https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/wire-hou ... s/4905735/
24 pins

Next is the aux power connector.
https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/wire-hou ... s/4905628/
10 pins

You will also need a 3pin JST NH for the fan 12v.
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/ ... -ND/527349

And finally, the pins to crimp for all these. Just buy 100 and be done with it
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/ ... -ND/527350


You need to buy a bunch of 22 awg stranded wire. I would get at least 10 feet of each color you use, preferably more.

Then you will doublecrimp some of these into the ATX connector:
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/ ... -ND/284603

And the pins - get 30 because you will mess up a few
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/ ... ND/3160065


Here is my custom power harness adapter for ATX supplies. I used a 600W supply, but anything above 400W from a good brand should be safe. Model 3 is pretty heavy on the 3.3v rail which is usually not as heavily utilized in most PCs. Most PCs draw 12v and buck that down locally for Vcore in CPU and graphics.

https://i.imgur.com/rHQ13ZF.jpg

This was super helpful. I ended up purchasing the connectors from JST directly since no one in the US seems to have the 24-pin in stock. My order quantity for most of the parts was below their box size minimum so fingers crossed that it actually ships!

icuk7 wrote:I'm just about to leave for work so will reply a bit more in detail later if reqd.

Getting basic audio shouldn't be a major issue.
You can wire a 3.5mm jack direct to CN7 or CN8 on the Model 3 filter board using the connectors Model3man stated, one is for front audio and one is for rear.
No music though, but you will get sound.

Getting steering would be a bit more difficult as you may need the I/O board, I'm not 100% sure though as the 5k pot may just connect direct to the filter board before going to the drive board.
But once you sort that you could in theory hook up a steering wheel + pedals, all 3 use the same 5k pots (3 pots in total).

Bart, please let me send you a Daytona 2 loom and some other useful bits, it will make life much easier to get Daytona 2 up and running.
It may be daunting at first, but if you work in sections everything becomes clear with the schematics.

OK, gotta run! Should have left 30 mins ago.

What's the voltage range output for the steering? I assume it's from 0-5V?

I'd feel bad having you send me anything right now. I'm kind of all over the place lately and operating on a low duty cycle (meaning I might spend several hours or a couple days on a project, and then shelve it for weeks). Let's see how this one fares I ordered connectors from JST and those will likely take a few weeks to arrive. In the meantime, I've got some other stuff to keep me busy. Namely, I've had an LA Machineguns gun sitting in my room for 2-3 years now. Not even sure it works (the seller claimed it does but was a real asshole to deal with, so I don't trust him). I need to purchase some sort of power supply to power it (I think I'll just get a lab unit with variable output for this one). I'd like to use that for a VR project.

icuk7, where abouts in the UK are you ?

Bart wrote:

icuk7 wrote:I'm just about to leave for work so will reply a bit more in detail later if reqd.

Getting basic audio shouldn't be a major issue.
You can wire a 3.5mm jack direct to CN7 or CN8 on the Model 3 filter board using the connectors Model3man stated, one is for front audio and one is for rear.
No music though, but you will get sound.

Getting steering would be a bit more difficult as you may need the I/O board, I'm not 100% sure though as the 5k pot may just connect direct to the filter board before going to the drive board.
But once you sort that you could in theory hook up a steering wheel + pedals, all 3 use the same 5k pots (3 pots in total).

Bart, please let me send you a Daytona 2 loom and some other useful bits, it will make life much easier to get Daytona 2 up and running.
It may be daunting at first, but if you work in sections everything becomes clear with the schematics.

OK, gotta run! Should have left 30 mins ago.

What's the voltage range output for the steering? I assume it's from 0-5V?

I'd feel bad having you send me anything right now. I'm kind of all over the place lately and operating on a low duty cycle (meaning I might spend several hours or a couple days on a project, and then shelve it for weeks). Let's see how this one fares I ordered connectors from JST and those will likely take a few weeks to arrive. In the meantime, I've got some other stuff to keep me busy. Namely, I've had an LA Machineguns gun sitting in my room for 2-3 years now. Not even sure it works (the seller claimed it does but was a real asshole to deal with, so I don't trust him). I need to purchase some sort of power supply to power it (I think I'll just get a lab unit with variable output for this one). I'd like to use that for a VR project.

OK mate, no worries.

The voltage for the FFB motor is 100v, the motor is powered by the servo board.
The drive board is powered by either 3.3v/5v/12v, off the top of my head I can't remember sorry but looking at the below picture it appears to be 5v.

Here's a picture of the FFB board + servo board from a Japanese cab.
The schematics should help decipher where the 5k pots are wired to.



I've got a couple of weeks off from work after tomorrow, I've got a couple of wiring projects I want to try and complete. One project is trying to make a tidy Daytona 2 setup. If I finish making my wiring project before you finish making yours then I'd love to send it to you. I'm not trying to put any pressure on you, I'd just like you to have something that would make tinkering with Model 3 stuff a pleasure to do.

Lets see how it goes though!

Thanks.

Ian wrote:icuk7, where abouts in the UK are you ?

I live in Birmingham.

Are you based in UK?

Thanks.

Jiterdomer wrote:What are the tools to run the board through HDMI?

You can get HDMI from Model 3 using a Gonbes GBS8200 upscan convertor + HDMI adapter.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VGA-INPUT-to-HDMI-OUTPUT-Adapter-Video-Audio-Converter-Cable-1080P-For-TV-PC-DVD/154006311934

I did try the HDMI adapter with a Gonbes for 24k and the image wasn't 100% stable for me, there's some slight wobble but there may be something to adjust somewhere that resolves that issue.

So basically the same setup as below but you would use one of the HDMI adapters I linked to above:



There's a mod you can do to the GBS8200 called 'GBS control', I tried it out and it works great.
There's no noticeable lag which is great considering the price of the GBS8200 + mod.

icuk7 wrote:

Ian wrote:icuk7, where abouts in the UK are you ?

I live in Birmingham.

Are you based in UK?

Thanks.

Dorset had a few ideas about capturing network data between 2 machines but Birmingham is quite a drive

Ian wrote:

icuk7 wrote:

Ian wrote:icuk7, where abouts in the UK are you ?

I live in Birmingham.

Are you based in UK?

Thanks.

Dorset had a few ideas about capturing network data between 2 machines but Birmingham is quite a drive

Yeah, that is a fair distance mate.

I'll try something else to try and capture some network traffic when I get the chance.
I spoke to some guys at work and they pointed me towards buying a cheap pci-e network card. Once I've recovered from my recent shift I'll go through it with them again. My head is a bit fried at the moment and I need to get some rest.