Supermodel Forum

I just snagged a Daytona 2 board set on eBay. Really hope it is working. It appears to have the network jacks on the I/O board but as I only have one unit I don't know if it will be of much use for Ian & co.'s reverse engineering efforts. However, I do hope to eventually get code running on this. I have 2 Step 1.0 PCBs (VF3 and Sega Bass Fishing, the latter which I will be selling as I need to reclaim some closet space) and so I'm excited to get a Step 2.0 board.

Question: does anyone have part numbers off hand for Molex connectors *and* the pins that go in them for use with the I/O board. I will need to build some more connectors to hook up an Arduino to the input pins. Also, eventually I want to replace the PSU I've been using as it is really pretty precarious. I think the pin spacing is 0.1 inches but I haven't had much luck with building a solid connector before.

The filter board uses JST NH female connectors. Sadly these are very hard to come by anymore. Even the part numbers I bought from digikey are no longer available. I was ordering longer parts and dremeling them down to the correct number of pins.

Luckily I was able to find the main power connector at RS in australia.
https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/wire-hou ... s/4905735/
24 pins

Next is the aux power connector.
https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/wire-hou ... s/4905628/
10 pins

You will also need a 3pin JST NH for the fan 12v.
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/ ... -ND/527349

And finally, the pins to crimp for all these. Just buy 100 and be done with it
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/ ... -ND/527350


You need to buy a bunch of 22 awg stranded wire. I would get at least 10 feet of each color you use, preferably more.

Then you will doublecrimp some of these into the ATX connector:
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/ ... -ND/284603

And the pins - get 30 because you will mess up a few
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/ ... ND/3160065


Here is my custom power harness adapter for ATX supplies. I used a 600W supply, but anything above 400W from a good brand should be safe. Model 3 is pretty heavy on the 3.3v rail which is usually not as heavily utilized in most PCs. Most PCs draw 12v and buck that down locally for Vcore in CPU and graphics.

https://i.imgur.com/rHQ13ZF.jpg

It looks like RS-ONLINE still has the larger pincount JST NH connectors, but minqty is 10.

I already have a crimper and the wire/experience so I'm thinking about making a few more harnesses. I have two Daytona2 BOTE boardsets and a toslink cable, but not a second power harness to run both at once

There are a couple Model3 filter boards on ebay right now by the way. Step1/2 are the same

Edit: The dual row headers on each board are DIN 41612. The ones Sega used are Omron XC5A series (male) on each board, which mate to XC5B series (female). They are indeed 2.54mm pitch

what do you plan to do with your new board ?

Power supplies for model3 are sold here
It seems that they also ship overseas
https://www.tops-game.jp/products/list. ... ory_id=193

Contact us here
https://www.tops-game.jp/user_data/fore ... s/contact/

model3man wrote:There are a couple Model3 filter boards on ebay right now by the way. Step1/2 are the same

Edit: The dual row headers on each board are DIN 41612. The ones Sega used are Omron XC5A series (male) on each board, which mate to XC5B series (female). They are indeed 2.54mm pitch

I might be using the wrong terminology. These are what I referred to as the I/O board -- the little PCB mounted to the side of the stack that exposes all the power, input, and video out connections. I thought filter board referred to an audio board, which I don't have.

Ian wrote:what do you plan to do with your new board ?

I'd like to get my test program up and running on Step 2.x. We could run tests on this board if need-be. I'd like to write a firmware that lets me upload from the PC using the input pins and no feedback. I think it's doable. I know that we've got almost everything figured out so maybe it's not that useful anymore but if I could send code to the board without needing to burn EPROMs every time, we could easily test all sorts of things. You and others could even write your own tests in C using my model3 library and send them to me for testing.

Nice score Bart!

Model3man has sorted out the part numbers for the connectors and pins, but as for Power supply I personally wouldn't buy one of those from Tops as there are better and cheaper options if you have the ability to make your own loom.

I recently made a Model 3 - Lindbergh loom to try and reduce the clutter, it works great.
The beauty of the Lindbergh PSU is that it's modular, so you could potentially power quite a few different hardware platforms on it. That's my suggestion anyway.



I recently bought the looms from both sides of a UK Daytona 2 twin, they should arrive the beginning of next week.
I only need one loom right now for a project I'm about to start, and the person I bought it off has other looms available, so, if possible I'd like to offer the other loom to you if it's useful. I'll also include a couple hundred crimp pins as I bought a reel of 5000 a while back and I still have some spares.

It shouldn't be too expensive to ship it over if I stuff it in a small box.
It's the least I can offer after all you guys are doing/have done.

Thanks.

What are the tools to run the board through HDMI?